Since 1999, Dr. Rooter has been the Midlands plumbing specialist, Offering complete plumbing repair to residential and commercial customer alike. We are fully insured, bonded and licensed specializing in the tough plumbing tasks which other companies aren't equipped to handle. No job is too tough or too small for our expert technicians. Give us a call today for you FREE Estimate. (843) 739-2188

Plumbing Services

Leak Detection

Water Heater Services

Sink Replacement

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25 Plus Years of Experience
5,467

Hours Worked

546

Amazing Clients

356

Projects

256

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Happy Clients

Dr Rooter is the absolute best. I had them re-pipe my whole house after we had major issues and they did an excellent job.

Posted By
Rick T.

We live in an older house and constantly run into problems and Dr Rooter has been our savior! They have helped us with every situation and it has been so easy.

Posted By
Jeff B.

Our hot water heater stopped working and they were able to get us a new one installed and working again in no time. Very happy!

Posted By
Samantha S.

I have had bad luck with plumbers but Dr Rooter finally solved that! They came right out and fixed the issue like true professionals.

Posted By
Steve A.

Ready for a quote from the premier plumbers in Lexington?


Our Expertises

Plumbing100%
Hydro Jetting100%
Water Heaters100%
Sewer Lines100%
Drain Lines100%

FAQs

To help prevent leaking pipes in your home, there are several things you can do. To take overall stress off your pipes, measure the water pressure that is going through the pipes. If the water pressure in a plumbing system exceeds 60 psi for an extended period of time, water hammers may start to spring up. As a pipe moves and shifts under pressure, leaks can start to form, thus increasing the need to fix leaking pipes. To regulate pressure back down to a normal level (30-50 psi), have an experienced plumber make the appropriate adjustments to the water regulator on your property, or if necessary, add a water pressure reducing valve. Residential water pressure should never exceed 80 psi.
Before you spend $500 on a new dishwasher, there is probably a much simpler solution if you find your dishwasher not draining. You may not be Handyman of the Century, but there are a few things you can do to try to rectify the problem. If there is water in bottom or your dishwasher after the cycle has completed, try these tips to troubleshoot on your own by checking a few different areas of your machine. Check the filter in the tub of the dishwasher. While most modern dishwashers have built-in grinders, things like food and paper can still block the filter. Clear any trash or debris. Ensure the hose from the dishwasher to the garbage disposal or drain line is not kinked. Check the sink for proper drainage and run the garbage disposal for a few seconds. In many cases, dishwashers are set up to drain through the garbage disposal—and when that’s clogged, there is nowhere for the dishwasher water to go. Check the air gap (not all dishwashers have one, but it’s the silver device next to the faucet). If water comes out of it, then the clog is between the air gap and the garbage disposal. In order to unclog this, you’ll need to remove the air gap cap. Locate the large tube that goes into the garbage disposal. Clear the tube of any blockage using a bottle brush. Test the drain valve. If you have a drain valve that keeps water from draining back into the dishwasher, check this too. To test the valve, push on the valve bracket and make sure it moves freely. It could be frozen—if that’s the case, the electrical solenoid that powers it may have burned out. Clean out the drain tube. You can disconnect the drain tube from the air gap. Make sure it’s not plugged and clear it of any debris before reconnecting it.
Though it may seem strange, this problem isn’t all that uncommon. Inside the walls of your home, your tub, toilet, sink and shower are all connected to the same water supply pipes. A problem with one faucet can be related to pipes leading to another part of the bathroom. Each is connected to the main water line in the same way. If your faucet leaks when the toilet is flushed, then the bathroom faucet drip is most likely caused by high water pressure. The water pressure in the main water supply line has probably exceeded 80 psi, causing complications. When your toilet is flushed, water flows from the supply line to refill the tank. But, if the water pressure is too high, it can force water through a seat washer that may be worn, cut or deteriorated, causing your faucet to drip. However, if your water pressure is 80 psi, you should have your pressure reducing valve evaluated by a plumber to see why the house’s water pressure is so high. Once the pressure ceases, so does the leak. However, over time, this problem can cause more complications.
A traditional water heater keeps 30–50 gallons of water, and preheats it ahead of time. When someone in your home uses hot water, it comes preheated. The tank is then is refilled and reheated. Conventional water heaters are initially cheaper than tankless options. They usually cost far less at purchase. Installation is also easier, which means that problems with the unit are simpler to fix, and the unit itself is easy to replace. However, a traditional water heater has its drawbacks. Since it’s heating a set amount of water, regardless of your needs, your utility bill will be higher monthly. Traditional water heaters are also larger than tankless units, which limits where they can be installed; they can’t be installed outdoors, for example. With a traditional heater, there’s also the chance that you can run out of hot water. A conventional water heater also has a shorter life expectancy than a tankless heater, which means you’ll have to replace it more often. Tankless heaters store no water, and use your home’s power (gas or electricity) to heat water as needed. As such, they don’t take up much space, and end up saving you lots on your utility bills. Tankless electric water heaters and tankless gas water heaters alike take up far less space than a conventional heater; they can be mounted outside if need be. Tankless heaters also last up to twice as long as their conventional counterparts. The convenience and longevity of the tankless heater comes with its own drawbacks. Tankless water heaters are initially more expensive than conventional heaters, and are more complex to install, resulting in further initial expenses. When purchasing either type of water heater, you have to gauge your current budget against the benefits and drawbacks of each. If you have the money to spend right now, or if you have a large family, the tankless heater may be for you. However, if you don’t have enough for a tankless heater, or you don’t want to spend too much on installation and replacement, then you may want to stick with the conventional option.